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Rumors from literary Germany this past year have had it that Gunter Grass, in his mid-seventies and heavy with honors, has produced his best and best-selling novel in at least a decade. The grand old man of German criticism, Marcel Reich-Ranicki, no fan of Grass's later work, is reported to have said that the new book--"Im Krebsgang,"in German--moved him to tears. Now it has appeared in English, as "Crabwalk"(translated from the German by Krishna Winston; Harcourt; $25). The book freewheels through a century of history and contains some fiction as well, but its central topic is the sinking of the refugee-laden German ship Wilhelm Gustloff, on January 30, 1945, by a Soviet ...