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The New Yorker

| October 23, 2006 | Julian, Kate | COPYRIGHT 2006 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

THE TASTING ROOM -- 264 Elizabeth St., between Houston and Prince Sts. (212-358-7831)--Until it relocated, this summer, the Tasting Room packed its small but fanatical following into an even smaller space, on First Street (eleven tables, no pantry or gas stove). The new dining room and bar seat ninety and are already filled with very earnest foodies--the kind who greet anyone unwitting enough to order something as banal as a cosmopolitan with curious, sidelong glances. (With the juice squeezed to order, cranberries would be tricky; also, it's not that sort of place.)

This is greenmarket cooking at its most improvisational. Colin Alevras, the chef and co-owner, builds each day's menu around what he finds at a farmer's market that morning. Should he determine that mushrooms are the thing, as he did on a recent Wednesday, he doesn't hold back: that night, four of seven starters and six of eight main dishes were built around them. (There was even fungus as dessert: club coral mushrooms with sheep's-milk yogurt, honey, and bee pollen.) If there is something manic about the menu planning, there is something equally fleeting about the results, and a particular dish may never reappear. In some cases, this is a ...

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