ROMAN HOLIDAY.(Who Is On Next? competition in Rome)

Byline: Andre Leon Talley

I hadn't been in Rome for two decades when I stepped off the plane on a July morning, summoned by Franca Sozzani, Vogue Italia's editor in chief, to be one of eleven international jurors sitting in judgment on the nine finalist designers in Who Is On Next?, the Italian version of America's Fashion Fund competition.

It was a bright summer Sunday in the middle of the World Cup. I checked into the Hotel Ingleterra. First thing: On went the pink Juicy Couture shorts and the Prada wicker visor. Ever mindful of the need to keep up my fitness efforts (which you readers might remember from columns past), I headed out for a walk before hunkering down to my duties as contest judge. I made it my routine each day: out to the Forum, then back via the Spanish Steps. The streets were calm-apart from a few great-looking kids cruising on their Vespas wearing Italian flags like capes-as the big final match between France and Italy approached.

That afternoon, for four hours in an air-conditioned hotel room, we the jury vetted the finalists as they made their formal presentations. A 27-year-old shoe designer from St. Louis was the first colt into the ring. His name was Courtney Crawford, and it was clear he was a contender.

Crawford specializes in five-inch stilettos in nonambiguous color compositions: orange and white and black patent; leopard vinyl with white leather and black patent. He told the jury that his inspirations included the 1920s Parisian star Josephine Baker (who was born in St. Louis) and his mother, a manicurist who owns a beauty parlor back home. He ticked off images that fuel his creativity: the repulsively attractive models in those old Robert Palmer videos . . . Grace Jones in her impact-eighties style . . . women who fight against stereotypes. . . .

Crawford has the gaze of a Manchurian emperor, but it quickly bounces into a warm smile. He has, in my view, the four keys to success: immaculate grooming, manners, articulation, and confidence.

WINNER TAKE ALL