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Byline: Catherine Piercy
Goth princesses at Dior, glam-rockers at Gucci, urban warriors at Proenza Schouler: Fashion designers bowed low to an edgy new muse on this fall's runways. To complement the rich vocabulary of the clothes, makeup artists conjured a fierce femininity of their own backstage. "This season, makeup was pushed to its limits," says Pat McGrath, who spearheaded the street-chic looks at Dior, Versace, and Rochas. "It's time for a woman with a strong identity again."
It was overwhelmingly a season focused on eyes. The key lay in "rimming with black, then coming in with color," says McGrath. To create "the architectural, Bowie-esque eye" at Gucci, she painted cranberry pigment over models' lids, tracing the ...