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QUEBEC, CANADA--In the summer of 2004, I made a solo kayak trip from New York City to Quebec. Not many realize it, but an inland water route connects these two cities. It includes the Hudson River, the Champlain Canal, Lake Champlain, the Richelieu River, and the St. Lawrence River, which flows right past Quebec City. The month-long, 467-mile trip was full of discoveries, but perhaps my most remarkable find was how generous and helpful everyone was.
My first human contact after leaving the marina at Dyckman Street in Manhattan occurred just south of the Tappan Zee Bridge, near Nyack. I had run low on drinking water. I saw a man in front of a house on top of a sea wall, and paddled over to ask for help.
He was impressed that I had paddled all the way from New York City in just an afternoon. He agreed to refill my water bottle, which I threw up to him. "Would you like an extra bottle?" he asked.
That exchange set a perfectly consistent pattern: In the course of the trip, there were about 70 times where I asked for help, or where people could see I needed it. In every single case, assistance was given--often more than I requested. Seven times people drove me to places I needed to go, eight times I was given food to eat, six times people offered me a place to camp. On two occasions, I spent the night in homes of strangers who had invited me to join their families. Four times I was offered the use of a shower. I was given laundry detergent twice, and Tylenol once. People let me park my kayak every time I asked. I was given water more than a dozen times, and directions and information about 30 times.
Near the end of my trip, at the village of Batiscan on the St. Lawrence River, I was sitting on the grass in the shade, resting after lunch. A man came up. "This is my property" he said.
Uh, oh, I thought. For the first time on the whole trip, I'm going to encounter hostility. "I'm sorry" I replied, indicating I was willing to leave.
"No, no, you can stay here" he said. "I'm a paramedic. When I saw you sitting down, I thought you might be ill. ...