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ARRIVING AT the former edge of the known world by plane almost entirely disqualifies me from writing from Santiago de Compostela; although I can plead one mitigating circumstance. My gazetteer--"in a new English translation, from the original Latin of the 12th-century Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago de Compostela, the earliest account of the pilgrim routes through France and Spain to the shrine of St James"--is so bulky it couldn't possibly fit into a knapsack. Imagine collapsing somewhere en route under the weight of a book as big as a paving stone! Stones clutter the landscape for an exceedingly long time and don't need to shorten the life of those beneath them.
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