sunny side up; There's a new tan in town.(Estee Lauder Inc.'s Azuree)

Byline: Jane Shin Park

Back in 1969, Estee Lauder created a woodsy floral fragrance she called Azuree-the combination of her own name and Cote d'Azur, the late-sixties epicenter of seaside glamour. The Azuree woman was, in Lauder's own words, "a golden girl, languorous_ly basking in the warm Med_iterranean sun." Thirty-seven years later, Tom Ford has dipped into the Lauder archives, re_imagin_ing this mythical

jet-setter and the chic essentials she might tuck in her bag on the way to the French Riviera-or perhaps Montauk, where Ca-rolyn Murphy braved freezing rain while shooting the ad campaign with Craig McDean this past September. The sexy new Azuree woman is most definitely still a golden girl, but with the Tom Ford treatment: neutral lips, smoked-out eyes, burnished cheeks, and attitude to spare. Almost 40 years later, summer beauty is still about sunny weekends and haute holidays (who doesn't want to languorously bask?) and most certainly still about a natural, head-to-toe glow. The difference: One tan no longer fits all.

RETHINK THE TAN

Sunshiny days call for sunshiny skin-fresh, radiant, glowing-but the idea is to look naturally luminous, and as makeup artist Bobbi Brown points out, that means different things for different complexions. "It's all about your own skin," says Brown. "I look better with a slight tan, but if you're so fair that you burn as soon as you walk outdoors, I say put away the bronzers and stay peachy." In other words, pick a palette that plays up your own undertones-adding a hint of caramel, a dab of honey, a flush of pink.

EASY DOES IT

Whether your touch of sun comes in copper or coral, do it with a light hand. Makeup artist Charlie Green sums up overzealous bronzing and self-tanning as "tragic. When you overdo it, it's all wrong." Instead of an allover monochromatic blanket of tanness (which makes skin look muddy and ...