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old spice; In the far reaches of south India, Jeffrey Steingarten discovers that the best ingredients are simple, local, and ancient.
Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten
The billboard said it was the world's biggest varpu, and we had no reason to doubt that. Some varpu somewhere has got to be the world's largest. Why not right here in the ancient city of Cochin, heart of the state of Kerala, on the west coast of India, lapped by the Arabian Sea? The billboard gave an address-"Crafters Antique Shop, Jew Town." My wife and I were in a taxi on our way into Cochin from the airport, and I asked the driver to translate. A varpu is a large uruli, with handles, he explained. In Kerala, they speak the Malayalam language, which nobody else in the world does. No wonder I was confused.
This was our first ...
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