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THE ENCOUNTER To have taken the boat downstream to the village, and to find the narrow path up through the bamboo barricade beyond the stony beach where a young woman is hacking at the washing on a stone by the waterside--to have found the pathway's entrance to the village blocked by villagers who closed in sharply and blocked our way, letting three of us go on, cutting two of us off, demanding more money, approaching to inches away, and suddenly the woman standing nearest, knitting woollen sandals for the tourists turns into something else, and the men are a couple of feet away, and another group are waiting up the path, and the closer ones are quickly shaking open hands to warn ...