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Fernanda Eberstadt, an ambitious, resourceful novelist with a lush style and a Manhattan background, has written, in "Little Money Street: In Search of Gypsies and Their Music in the South of France" (Knopf; $24.95), a piquant nonfictional account of her successful attempt to penetrate the Gypsy enclave of Perpignan. This city, at the eastern end of the Pyrenees, holds five thousand Gypsies in an urban center of around a hundred thousand. Eberstadt and her husband, Alistair Bruton, and their two small children found themselves living in a rented house outside Perpignan because Bruton, we are told a bit abruptly, "was writing a book about the decline of religion in modern ...