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Korea 1. They have no mandatory Italians. And where are all their Turks and Greeks? There are no Arabs or Somalis to quietly polychrome the week. A true homogeneity can be, at times, quite hard to bear. In all Seoul's subway chatter we're the only Anglos on the air. 2. The reading list is forty-four; a poem each about world peace. Two in three declaim Korean; it looks as though there's no release. I read my own; then stay two hours, staring cross-eyed at the table, remembering polyglottally what happened in the Tower of Babel. 3. Entering as foreign dollars we pass some workers in the rice. Arriving in a fleet of buses we find the hotel vast--but nice. The North Korean waitresses, though cramped perhaps, have learned to live and almost smile, from time to time, inside their metanarrative. 4. A nation of civil engineers, another, classic bureaucrats, sharing one peninsula, singing in their sharps and flats ... How one could transform the other! Why can't they soon be friend-to-friend? One could spin a web of freeways, the other check at either end. Energy and Density, two words to summarise Busan; streets flowing with alert Hyundais; apartments done to master plan; money to be made in lifts; money to be made in cars. The TV screens are wide and fiat. There's not much time to check the stars. 6. Good health is clearly relative-- before you eat Korean food they force you to remove your shoes to share in their hygienic mood but when the meal itself arrives, resplendent on its hundred plates, the chopsticks flash like civil war; all need for hygiene then abates. 7. Korean barbecues in situ enforce a cultural immersion. The table is awash with tastes and kim-chi in a dozen versions. The charcoal sears both beef and pork and almost cooks your face as well. Despite the use of little chimneys, it's pretty much like Dante's Hell. 8. ...