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When the noted French essayist, Michel de Montaigne (1533-1592) set out on a trip to Rome, he almost certainly traveled with his own knife and spoon, but probably not a fork. He wrote a well-observed journal during his travels, which took him on a circuitous route through parts of what are now Germany, Austria, and Switzerland before reaching Italy. The fact that he was watching his diet because of his kidney stones may have made him a more acute observer of cuisine and dining customs than most travelers, and he described them in some detail. As he noted, "Monsieur de Montaigne [as he referred to himself], to essay completely the diversity of manners and customs, let ...