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PSST! GOT MILK?(The Talk of the Town)

The New Yorker

| November 29, 2004 | Kaufman, Frederick | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

In a Hell's Kitchen basement the other day, Manhattan's first shipment of raw milk--unpasteurized, unlicensed, unhomogenized, and illegally transported across state lines--was delivered to the grateful, if wary, members of a private raw-milk coven. Claudia K., a herbalist and community gardener, had masterminded the drop-off through e-mails to a secret Listserv of lacto-fermentation scofflaws. Claudia's messages included price lists ($4.25 per gallon of raw milk, $4 for a quart of raw yogurt), a downloadable contract, and an appeal: "Please do not forward this e-mail to anyone. . . . We ask this because of the legal constraints put on us for the sale of raw milk."

Milk straight from the cow has become a new obsession of New York's raw-food disciples, who believe that it works as a "milk cure" for ailments as varied as hypertension, heart disease, chronic gastritis, and psoriasis. They dispute accusations (made by the F.D.A., among other dairy-industry stooges) that raw-milk products contain high levels of pathogens that can cause salmonella, brucellosis, and tuberculosis.

The raw-milk question goes way back, in these parts. In pre-Revolutionary Manhattan, the sale of milk seems to have been forbidden in public markets. In a letter to a newspaper in 1763, a dairy zealot channelled the voice of milk itself: "What can or may be the reasons that I am not admitted or ordered into the public markets? Tho' that I am the support and only nourishment of almost every creature, the poorer sort of mankind are deprived of me, as they cannot bribe my bearers." Over the years, the sale of raw milk has been so restricted that it has become virtually impossible to buy.

Before the drop-off in Hell's Kitchen, Nathan Donahoe, a massage therapist, was helping set up tables for three jumbo coolers of contraband dairy products that a Mennonite farmer had sent from Pennsylvania. "These guys are saving ...

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