home on the range; Estancia living is the most intimate and luxurious way to take in the Argentine countryside.(El Colibri)(Hotel review)

Byline: Richard Alleman

Just northwest of Buenos Aires, the province of Cordoba is known for its great natural beauty. Seduced by the region's wide-open spaces, French hotelier Raoul Fenestraz and his wife, Stephanie, recently acquired a pristine 420-acre tract and have turned it into a lavish twenty-first-century estancia called El Colibri. The resort offers close to 60 mounts, four polo fields, and excellent programs of instruction for all levels of riders and polo players. The main house has nine luxurious rooms and suites, most with fireplaces and all furnished with good antiques and smart modern pieces. The public areas are particularly striking-especially the main lounge with its 25-foot ceilings, huge open fire, and knockout views of Cordoba Mountain. Besides enjoying equestrian pursuits, guests at El Colibri can relax on the pink stone deck of the lovely pool, go hiking on miles of trails, help the gauchos with their ranching, take tango lessons, or play golf on three nearby courses, including Villa Allende, considered one of the best in the country. Doubles from $380; 54-3525-465-888; estanciaelcolibri.com.

It was the province of Salta on the edge of the Andes, with its majestic mountains, dramatic "pipe organ" canyons, and subtropical cloud forests, that seduced actor Robert Duvall and his Argentine wife, Luciana. Here the Duvalls found and restored a 100-year-old estancia with a sprawling ranch house and 300 verdant acres alongside the Arenales River. Their House of Jasmines-the grounds are rampant with wild jasmine as well as orchids and roses-features seven

rustic-chic suites with beamed ceilings, white poster beds, wrought-iron chandeliers, and well-chosen Argentine antiques. A pondlike pool, a small spa, and a paddock of fine horses complete the property. ...