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Byline: Hamish Bowles
Number twelve, calle Aldamar, a narrow medieval street in the Basque fishing village of Getaria, is a humble establishment of flint stone and flaking ocher plaster. Its upper floors command views across the beach and the wide gray Atlantic, but the lower floors, their windows barred, look onto the dark, cobbled lane. Into these claustrophobic rooms Cristobal Balenciaga, the mythic creator who was to turn couture into the highest art, was born. The work of "fashion's Picasso," as Cecil Beaton dubbed him, is to be celebrated in "Balenciaga Paris" at the Musee de la Mode et du Textile, Paris (July 4 through January 28, 2007)-remarkably, the ...