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COPYRIGHT 2005 The Spectator Ltd. (UK)
When I compiled this month's offer--from the estimable Simon Wrightson, who conducts is business from a gorgeous manor house in North Yorkshire--was slightly surprised to discover that we had an entirely French selection. This at a time when Australia is ahead of France in off-licence and supermarket sales. But Spectator readers tend to be counterintuitive and eclectic--iconoclastic even when they are most conservative. We are all discovering that French wines have improved hugely over the past few years, and the arrogance implied by so many third-rate bottles sold at high prices is disappearing. Personally, I'd still avoid buying wine in a French supermarket--they flood the domestic...
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