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Pinot noir was ready for its close-up and got it in the past year with the hit movie "Sideways." Sales of the up-and-coming varietal surged, and some California vineyards became instant tourist lures after Miles, the neurotic protagonist, waxed poetic about the wine and about particular labels.
But when our expert testers evaluated pinots noir in blind tests, they weren't overly impressed with one from a winery Miles called "top-notch" for pinot. We tasted the Sanford Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills 2001, $26, and noted flavors that were unbalanced. Some less-expensive pinots noir rated higher, including two that cost less than half the price (see the wines in the ...