BIG CHEESE.(The Talk of the Town)

Publication: The New Yorker

Publication Date: 27-SEP-04

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COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc.

While touring Wisconsin last month, George W. Bush made an unscheduled stop at the Cady Cheese Factory, in Wilson, which turns out torpedoes of Colby and pepper Jack for machine-slicing at the deli counter. The candidate's swing-state snack made Fox News, and the Times ran a wire photo showing Bush holding a platter of curds surrounded by half a dozen locals in hairnets.

"I'm sure it was bad cheese," Jonathan White said the other day, at Bobolink Dairy, the two-hundred-acre farm on the New York-New Jersey border that he runs with his wife, Nina. The Whites are artisanal cheesemakers who believe that cows should live outside and eat...

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