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DISSED FISH.

The New Yorker

| September 06, 2004 | Trillin, Calvin | COPYRIGHT 2004 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Calvin Trillin discusses regional food fetishes

From 1972, Trillin reports from a Louisiana crawfish festival

From 1977, Trillin hunts barbecued lamb in Kentucky

My friend Jeffrey Jowell, who grew up in Cape Town, has lived away from South Africa for more than forty years, yearning for snoek the entire time. He thinks about fried snoek and grilled snoek and dried snoek and snoek made into pate. He may miss smoked snoek most of all. Any mention of snoek--a long, bony fish that looks like a second cousin of a barracuda--triggers memories in Jeffrey of his childhood, particularly of the stern interrogation of fishmongers that was part of his late ...

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