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Byline: Hamish Bowles
The couturier Lucien Lelong deserves to be better known. Lelong pioneered the concept of luxury ready-to-wear in the thirties; he nurtured an impressive roster of design assistants (Dior, Balmain, and Givenchy, among them); and he was a diplomat whose persuasive powers during the Occupation saved the Paris couture from being transplanted to Berlin as the Germans initially demanded. At long last, an exhibit opening on February 28 at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, "Modern Master: Lucien Lelong, Couturier (1918-1948)," illuminates his brilliant legacy.
Lelong was a decorated war hero who took over his parents' modest ...