Sweet potatoes: enjoy this sweet staple of nutrition any time.(VINE RIPE)

First things first: a sweet potato is not a potato nor is it a yam. No wonder this poor root has an identity crisis.

Sweet potatoes, part of the morning glory family, are sometimes called the most nutritious vegetable around. When eaten with the skin on, they contain high concentrations of vitamins A, [B.sub.6], C and E. They are virtually cholesterol- and fat-free, low in sodium and offer more fiber than oatmeal and four times the US Recommended Daily Allowance for beta-carotene. "Due to their antioxidant and fiber content, they are protective against heart disease and cancer," says Cynthia Sass, MPH, registered dietitian and national spokesperson for the American Dietetic Association. "The high levels of phytochemicals and beta-carotene also help protect the eye from disorders like macular degeneration."

Sweet potato skins come in a variety of colors, from pale yellow to deep purple. When cooked, the paler types tend to have dry and crumbly flesh, similar to a baked potato, with a not-so-sweet flavor; the darker-skinned varieties have moist, orange flesh and are sweeter. When buying sweet potatoes, select firm ones with smooth skins and no soft spots. Store them loose for up to a week in a cool, dark, dry place. Do not refrigerate them since temperatures below 55F will give them a hard core and an unpleasant taste when cooked.

These versatile roots can be fried, steamed, baked, boiled, microwaved, turned into grilled potato chips or even eaten raw as crudites. Use them in soups, salads, casseroles, cakes, pies and cookies. To bring out their natural sweetness, bake them, then top with a touch of cream and flaked coconut, cranberry sauce or apricot chutney. Create savory versions with black beans, tomatoes, a squeeze of lime juice, cilantro and kosher salt--or the favorite old standby: plain butter.

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