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Nothing distinguishes Mexican food from other delicacies quite like its ubiquitous chiles--but Mexico's grip on the production of dried chiles has faltered in recent years. China has grabbed a large share of international buyers and its reach is spreading, even in Mexico.
Asia has long been the world leader in the production of chiles, but the infiltration of the Mexican market is new. Jose Manuel Gochicoa, the president of the Mexican National Council of Chile Producers (CONAPROCH), insists that for use in Mexican food, national varieties are superior to the "Chinese counterfeits--they are similar, but they are not the same."
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