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On the road.(fashion shows)

Vogue

| January 01, 2006 | Talley, Andre Leon | COPYRIGHT 2006 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Andre Leon Talley

MILAN: thursDAY,

SEPTEMBER 29

Wow. Donatella Versace has taken back control of her craft and her life. Her spring collection, on the last night of Italian Fashion Week, was the strongest she's done in the eight years since she took over the house after the tragic death of her brother Gianni.

Volte-face! Gone were the overt blonde-bombshell looks. Out were the long, in-your-face red-carpet-nominee dresses.

Where did Donatella Versace find the strength to haul it all in, to rein in the whole-hog bling-bling fantasy and come up with fresh takes on the important trends for spring?

Well, as many of you know, this year she made the long journey from substance abuse to a five-week stay at the Meadows, the famous rehab clinic in the Arizona desert-and believe it or not, the mood and the colors of the tranquil American Southwestern landscape were what focused the spring collection. Day dresses came in soft, feminine jersey, in the subtle shades of the desert landscape, the pale beige of Arizona sand and soft poolside blues. No one-dimensional glamour girls here. No retro riffs on eighties aggressive femininity.

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