LUNCH WITH TOMMY LEE.(The Talk of the Town)(Tommy Lee Jones)(Interview)

Tommy Lee Jones, actor, producer, and first-time big-screen director, was having lunch the other day at The Players club, in Gramercy Park. Jones appears in his new movie, "The Three Burials of Melquiades Estrada," as a gray-bearded, sun-fried Texas rancher named Pete. He wears scuffed boots and dirty jeans. He speaks Spanish as well as English. He plays the loyal friend of an illegal Mexican immigrant who is mysteriously murdered. Now out of character, Jones, clad in dark Prada and Hermes, looked clean-shaven and barbered. He chose to sit downstairs, in the Grill Room, near an old pool table and a huge fireplace.

Jones pressed his large hands flat against his cheekbones. "It's been a rough six weeks, travelling with the film. We've been to France, Toronto, and Morelia, in Mexico. In Japan, I took three days for myself, to go to Kyoto, one of my favorite cities in all the world. Then to New York, to talk to journalists, I guess we call them." He grinned and held it. "I went to an interview with Charlie Rose," he said. "You go in there, and it's all dark, except for the light directed on the table. It looked very much like an execution chamber." He took a sip of the Bloody Mary he had ordered. "I'm happy to be here," he said. "The main thing is, I feel at home in New York. It's open-minded and openhearted."

A former president of The Players, the British actor Michael Allinson, who is well remembered as the imposing Rolls-Royce passenger in the Grey Poupon commercials, came over, bowed, and held out a formal hand to Jones. "Absolutely delighted to see you," he said, with royal British diction.

"Thank you, sir," Jones said, shaking the hand.

"And you've just--?" Allinson said.

"Finished a new film," Jones said.

Allinson looked overcome. "Oh, how wonderful!" he said. He bowed again. "I must see it."