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On January 20, 2003, the English journalist William Leith decides he has to lose weight. That's the day he gets on the bathroom scale and finds that it's "the fattest day of my life": he's just over six feet tall and he weighs two hundred and thirty-six pounds. He feels lousy. He feels repulsive. In fact, he is repulsive. His girlfriend tells him to stop tucking his shirt into his trousers--"It just bulks you out"--and she doesn't want to have sex with him anymore. He resolves, not for the first time, to do something about it. He gets on a plane and goes to New York to see Dr. Atkins, and he decides, more or less at the same time, to write a book about his eating ...