Leeks: this earthy vegetable has its roots in the onion family. Here's how to make it a favorite in your house.(VINE RIPE)

Whoever described the leek as the "poor man's asparagus" clearly didn't do his research. Leeks taste more like their round relatives--onions and garlic--than the long, thin asparagus, even though they physically resemble them.

While leeks are strongly associated with French cooking, they're native to many regions of the world, including Israel, India and the United States. Several varieties are grown here--Large American Flag, Blue Leaf, Carentan, Blue Solaise and Giant Musselburg--with flavors ranging from heavy and bitter to light and sweet. Once cooked, however, flavor differences are subtle, and leek varieties may be used interchangeably.

Look for firm leeks with crisp green tops and the roots still attached. Though you'll pay more for the weight of the tops, trimmed leeks can have an off taste. Thick leeks are fine for chopping and cooking, but if you plan to serve them whole, buy leeks no larger than one inch in diameter to get the tenderest results.

To prepare leeks, trim the dark green tops, and discard the tough outer leaves and roots. Then cut them in half lengthwise and wash, wash, wash. Leeks are grown in mounds of sandy soil, so you need to repeatedly swish them in clean water to remove all the grit. You may need to change the water several times.

But the effort is worth it. Leeks can be a great addition to any family meal.

leek, spinach and tomato frittata

Serves 4 (8 wedges)