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MR STUART IN ASWAN Remembrance Sunday, 2004 We stepped out on thin ice, then back, without blinking an eye. It was a dream, I'm sure, those two years married up the Nile, so hot and poor, so hard on lovers. Sky is pure lazulite today, our thermometer reads minus and the lawn is wreathed in white: a flickering cartouche "has this report ..." But you are back there, where Pythagorean sails still catch the pharaohs' breath and Nile keeps peace with Kitchener, the Aga Khan's white dome with iron hills. Our life here pales beside it all, a fertile strip that peels to western desert, tired tracks of a viper, a ...