TABLES FOR TWO.(Viny Vincenz's Pizzamobile)(Restaurant Review)

VINNY VINCENZ'S PIZZAMOBILE -- W. 40th St. at Broadway (212-674-0707)--Every weekday around noon, John (Kid) Lynch swings his red step van into his spot on West Fortieth Street, just east of Broadway. The ovens inside the van's fifty-square-foot galley are hot, having been fired up before he left Vinny Vincenz, a pizzeria on First Avenue and Fourteenth Street, where the dough is laid out. Once he's parked, Lynch spreads the shredded mozzarella and cooked red sauce and slams the square pan into the top oven. Though the herbed sauce is the owner's secret family recipe and the crust is always as nice and thin at the downtown store, slices seem better from the truck. It might be the high turnover, or Lynch's touch and timing--he says he knows by smell when the pie is done--but it's among the best in midtown. And it is nearly as good as what you can find at the sacred halls of the pizza hounds. "L & B Spumoni is my place in Bensonhurst," he says. "That's where God goes for pizza."

Lynch has been, among other things, the drummer for the band Yuppicide, an assistant to the artist Peter ...