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RENAISSANCE PEARS.(Isabella Dalla Ragione's fruit orchards)
The Fiorentina is a squat and hippy pear, its dark-green skin blemished with black freckles. It is to supermarket fruit as real people are to supermodels. Until recently, the pear was thought to have disappeared from central Italy, where it once flourished. But Isabella Dalla Ragione, a forty-seven-year-old agronomist in Perugia, continued to look for it.
Dalla Ragione has straight brown hair and crooked teeth; she can look twenty years younger than her age or ten years older, depending on the angle of her head. She is a fast driver and an even faster talker, with a gift for making archeologia arborea, as she calls her vocation--the pursuit and recovery of old ...
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