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TABLES FOR TWO.(Bruno Jamais )

The New Yorker

| October 24, 2005 | Paumgarten, Nick | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

BRUNO JAMAIS -- 24 E. 81st St. (212-396-3444)--Three years ago Bruno Jamais, who'd been fired as the maitre d' at Daniel, decided to start an elegant clubhouse for his old clients--"men who are presidents and chairmen of huge companies," he said at the time. "And their wives," he added. Bruno's goes late, serving food until 4 a.m., even as it morphs, via the removal of tablecloths, into a lounge. Tony Chi, Bruno's designer, has said, "The place is about rubbing, being together." A private dining room in the basement doubles as a surreptitious smoking area, where strangers congregate, rub, and exclaim, "You are very beautiful, let me tell you this."

At 8 p.m. on a recent steamy evening, the place was deserted, save for a soul band setting up. "Where is everybody?" the captain was asked. "Don't worry," he replied. Sure enough, by 9:15, the patrons outnumbered the staff. More than one party consisted of a lone gray-haired gent and three or four young, or younger, women. "It's like a professor and his students," a diner remarked. "Except that those ...

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