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BLT PRIME -- 111 E. 22nd St. (212-995-8500)--Laurent Tourondel's burgeoning chain (the name doesn't stand for "bacon, lettuce, and tomato"--it's an acronym of "bistro" plus his name) makes dependable, high-quality meals fancy enough to impress expense-account clients but conventional enough to appeal to a wide range of tastes. There's little to complain about, but not much that will transport you, especially on the steak end of the menu, where lightly seasoned slabs of beef are excellently turned out but hardly exceptional. And there are moments when the branding impulse becomes distracting. The menu urges the purchase of either an autographed copy of "Go Fish," Tourondel's seafood cookbook ($34), or a bottle of BLT Steak sauce ($9); the wine list includes a glass of BLT cuvee.
Still, the roaring-eighties atmosphere is fun and casual, with suit jackets flung over the backs of chairs and ties loosened, and there are a few notable red-meat moments. Tourondel offers a version of the B.L.T., with the ...