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the whole truth; Jeffrey Steingarten searches for grains that taste as good as they are good for you.

Vogue

| November 01, 2005 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

A whole wheat bread is baking in my oven, and the air smells sweet and warm and toasty. I have my fingers crossed-my luck with whole grains has never been good. I will offer a prayer to Ceres, goddess of grain.

The worst loaf of bread I ever baked was the Tibetan Barley Bread in The Tassajara Bread Book from the San Francisco Zen Center. This was the counterculture baking Bible of the seventies, and it brimmed over with valuable lessons and rewarding breads. Tibetan Barley Bread was an exception, so heavy and dense that it was an accomplishment to slice and unpleasant to eat without first slathering it with butter. As a ...

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