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after the deluge; Ten days after Katrina struck, Julia Reed filled a truck with food and gas and went to face the wreckage in her hometown of New Orleans.

Vogue

| November 01, 2005 | Reed, Julia | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Julia Reed

When I first took a place in New Orleans, it was on Bourbon Street, in front of a cathedral school and between two enormous gay bars, so that I was awakened in the morning by a tone-deaf nun singing "My Country, 'Tis of Thee" over a loudspeaker, and lulled-sort of-to sleep at night by the competing bass disco beats of two state-of-the-art sound systems. At a restaurant two blocks up, depending on the day, the all you can eat fried shrimp for $4.99 sign was held up by either a white midget or a black drag queen, each wearing the same filthy "antebellum" hoopskirt.

New Orleans has always been a city of striking juxtapositions and ...

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