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compliments to the chefs; Chicago has emerged as an epicurean epicenter, Jeffrey Steingarten writes, home to several of the most accomplished culinary masters.(Restaurant Review)

Vogue

| September 01, 2005 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

It is well past midnight, and as I sit here at my desk in Manhattan, I am getting totally hungry. On the whole, I wish I were back in Chicago.

For the present, Chicago is the most exciting American city in which to dine. At least that's what I think. There's so much young talent at the stove and at the Pacojet, so much creativity and exuberance. The culinary evolution that has been happening there for years has accelerated. The Chicago food world-eaters, writers, and workers-seems excited and proud. The chefs even have food fights in the press.

On the other hand, I may be entirely wrong. I've visited Chicago only ...

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