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Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten
It is well past midnight, and as I sit here at my desk in Manhattan, I am getting totally hungry. On the whole, I wish I were back in Chicago.
For the present, Chicago is the most exciting American city in which to dine. At least that's what I think. There's so much young talent at the stove and at the Pacojet, so much creativity and exuberance. The culinary evolution that has been happening there for years has accelerated. The Chicago food world-eaters, writers, and workers-seems excited and proud. The chefs even have food fights in the press.
On the other hand, I may be entirely wrong. I've visited Chicago only ...