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air fare; Smoke and vapor are the year's hottest ingredients.

Vogue

| October 01, 2005 | Steingarten, Jeffrey | COPYRIGHT 2005 All rights reserved. Reproduced by permission of The Condé Nast Publications Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

Byline: Jeffrey Steingarten

Have you tasted the incredible smoked mashed potatoes at Perry Street?" my colleague at Vogue (whom we will call Rhonda) asked. Perry Street is Jean-Georges Vongerichten's hot new Manhattan restaurant in the way West Village. It's possible she said "unbelievable smoked mashed potatoes." But no matter. My ears pricked up. I am always on the prowl for food that is either incredible or unbelievable. Plus, the very thought of smoked mashed potatoes made my mouth water.

But there was something more, something global and profound. I may actually have discovered a trend.

For this was the hundredth time in recent months that ...

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