ask mrs.exeter; Can a mature woman wear ornamented sweaters without looking like Ethel Mertz.

Question: How do you feel about jeweled cashmere sweaters as an evening option? Surely any woman of a certain age who is less than skinny-thin can do better, Mrs. Exeter, than these novelty tops that look as dowdy as Aunt Bee in Mayberry?

Answer: In theory, the beaded, jeweled, and/or ornamented sweater is a glittering option in the evening. Its appeal dates back to Chanel, to what the beautiful people wore in the South of France in the twenties-and then to Mainbocher's embellished cardigans from the forties, which were paired with ball skirts. These days, Oscar de la Renta is the designer who gets the look right more often than not.

But correct you are, too: Often there are snags in the sweater set. They have to fit really well and always be in utmost-pristine condition. The look is very C. Z. Guest, very Nancy Kissinger, or at least "jolie laide"-and that is if you are lucky. When the look fails, rather than chic and sleek we might look lumpy, dowdy, or cloying, like either an aging Donna Reed or a Lana Turner wannabe.

After dropping out of sight for what felt like years, ladylike sweaters reemerged several seasons ago with the popularity of twinsets. Softer, gentler cardigans-thank you, Miuccia Prada-replaced the power suits of the late eighties. In fall 2003, Oscar showed some wonderful, elegant cashmere pieces with strands of colored stones, and the trend continues in his collection this fall with light cashmere pullovers in sable colors with sort of Maltese, Chanel-esque crosses at the neck and bodice. I am

absolutely mad for them, of course, but generally more for day, with pants and skirts, not for evening, except perhaps in the country. (Oscar also adorns a pair of chic dinner shoes with his colorful Maltese cross.)

Alexander McQueen's latest show had some very Hitchcockian beaded looks: He was basically pitching the idea of the jeweled sweater and long skirt for evening. At our age, I am not sure how this look is anything but heavy going. It is a lot of weighty material.

But don't get me wrong; sweaters can be magic. They can dress up or dress down almost any look. A decorated sweater can add luminosity to the face, like-well, perhaps not exactly like but akin to-a great strand of pearls. Plus, given the way theaters and restaurants are heated, either too much or too little, a sweater with some pizzazz is a nice indoor alternative to fur, easy on and easy off.