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COPYRIGHT 2001 Texas Monthly, Inc.
A SELECTIVE GUIDE TO FOOD AND DRINK
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list, not by the editors of this column. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
(***) Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
(**) Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
(*) One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. CB: Carte Blanche. DC: Diners Club. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Amarillo
El Rey's 2311 Georgia (806-358-8281). From El Rey's name, we feared Elvis on velvet; instead, happily, there's bright black-and-white simplicity. We liked everything from the tortilla soup to the sugary peanut patties for dessert. The fish tacos here are marvelous--delicate chile-spiked grilled fish in a colorful tangle of shredded cabbage. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 11-10. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
[UPDATE] Houang's 5615 Amarillo Blvd E. (806-383-9800). We expect Thai and Chinese dishes to be fresh and pleasing, but Lao fare also offers surprising taste adventures. A salad of the thinnest possible slivers of green papaya and tomato in light lime-chile dressing comes with a cabbage wedge and G.H.W. Bush's famously favorite snack, pork rinds. Marinated, air-dried, sesame-coated Lao beef jerky is fried crisp and chewy (think polar opposite of rare) with tomato-chile dipping sauce and sticky rice. Leisurely service. Open Mon thru Sat 11-9, Sun 11-6. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Jorge's Tacos Garcia 1100 Ross (806-371-0411), "Naked" chiles rellenos, a house specialty, are not only perfectly chaste but entirely delicious: plain roasted Anaheim peppers stuffed with beef, chicken, or cheese. Old favorites (now served in the spacious new terracotta-and-white digs) include chicken-and-Swiss-cheese enchiladas and deftly grilled soft tacos. Bar. Open Mon 10:30-9:30, Tue thru Sat 10:30-10:00, Sun 10:30-3:30. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Places to try this month.
Country Pride 5909 S. Wineinger Rd. (806-373-3592). In these parts a cafe can't get more off-the-beaten-track than under the Washington Street overpass, yet this one has survived for nearly 50 years. The menu is limited to West Texas staples: Tex-Mex enchiladas and chiles rellenos, chicken-fried and hamburger steaks, and sandwiches. We appreciate the honest home cooking and the precisely calculated prices--witness 79-cent coffee (with refills) and a $3.23 BLT. Servers are friendly; clientele salt-of-the-earth. Beer. Open Mon thru Sat 11-8. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W)
Austin
Castle Hill Cafe 1101 W. 5th St (512-476-0728). A delicious crab-crawfish cake with creole slaw set the tone at this cozy, casual spot. Rigatoni pasta with grilled shrimp in a puttanesca sauce was right on, and the pecan-crusted pork tenderloin was like velvet (but the accompanying crawfish tamale almost stole the show). Beer & wine. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon thru Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
City Grill 401 Sabine (512-479-0817). This used to be one of the few gigs in town with yuppie appeal, but nowadays the converted warehouse seems almost retro. As for the food, the grilled Atlantic king salmon special topped with crabmeat was drenched in a pool of butter, but we found no fault with the steak and shrimp combo. Our waiter abandoned us often, only to return like an arrogant lover--far too late and expecting to be taken back. Bar. Open Sun thru Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Expensive. Cr.
Cool River Cafe 4001 Parmer Ln (512-835-0010). Think of this huge space as an upscale Dave and Buster's, with one side a white-tablecloth dining room. The empanadas stuffed with lobster and shrimp were delicious, and our bone-in lamb chops, rubbed in kosher salt and ground black pepper, were incredible. Bar. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11-4. Dinner Mon thru Sat 4-11. Closed Sun. Reservations accepted. Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W)
Driskill Grill Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-474-5911). White tablecloths and fresh flowers set the scene for an indulgent lunchtime getaway. We began with a luscious yellow-tomato bisque with a crab croquette, then got in a few delicious bites of angel-hair pasta with chicken piccata before the beeper went off. If only the office were as civilized. Bar. Open Sun 6:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. & 5:30-10, Mon thru Sat 6:30-2 & 5:30-10. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Via 7th St entrance.
Emilia's 600 E. 3rd St (512-469-9722). We were wowed by this spot in the restored Hofheintz-Reissig Store. Not only was the decor simple and elegant but so was the food. Our companion's crisp roast duck with seared duck confit was a sheer delight. But all agreed that the grilled veal chop with sauteed mushrooms, Spatzle, and wilted spinach won the prize. Extensive wine list; beautiful cellar. Bar. Dinner Mon thru Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Expensive to very expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Evita's Botanitas 6400 S. 1st St at Eberhart (512-441-2424). Our cheese enchiladas (cheddar and mozzarella) on the Tex-Mex plate were perfecto, and our companion's La Reyna--an enchilada (your choice of filling), a crispy taco, and guacamole--came with fantastic lime-cilantro rice and black beans. The vinyl booths say "laid-back." Bar. Open Sun 9:30-8:30, Mon, Wed & Thur 9-9:30, Fri & Sat 9-10. Closed Tue. Inexpensive. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Green Mesquite 1400 Barton Springs Rd (512-479-0485), 7010 Texas Hwy 71W (512-288-8300), and Scholz Garten, 1607 San Jacinto Blvd (512-474-1958). Luckily, nothing ever changes here, not the booths with green vinyl cushions, not the vintage posters advertising acts at the Armadillo, not the outdoor courtyard. Armed with a beer, we sampled the turkey, brisket, and ribs, all bursting with flavor; the chicken, though, was a bit dry. Tasty sides of mustardy potato salad and corn on the cob filled us right up. Beer & wine. Open Mon thru Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] (*) Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Inspired by the exotic regional cuisine at this charming Hill Country classic, our companion tried the signature appetizer of rattlesnake cakes. We timidly chose the papaya-marinated scallops in filo cups. Beef tenderloin was elegantly topped with smoked lobster and wild mushrooms. The peppercorn-crusted ribeye, however, was unappetizingly fatty, and the dry accompanying Stilton-blue-cheese fingerling potatoes bore none of the expected rich, tangy flavor. A citrus cheesecake special wiped out any residual negative memories. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue thru Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends, Expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
(**) Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584), The fried oysters, served on yucca root chips, are a requisite starter. Though the duck and shrimp entree combo was fine, we preferred the grilled yellowfin tuna served on linguine. Meyer lemon pudding cake with dried-blueberry ice cream provided a refreshing break from chocolate. Let's hope chef David Garrido's recent inaugural-week stint as a guest chef at Washington's Watergate Hotel doesn't make him restless. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon thru Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended, Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $50 & $75). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Korea House 2700 W. Anderson Ln (512-458-2477). We began well with starters of gochoo pazeon (a pancake-like Korean flatbread with green onions) and crisp fried egg rolls. We then settled on a 16-piece sushi combination that included a mild eel roll dotted with tangy barbecue sauce. Sit at the sushi bar and be entertained by deft chefs. Beer, wine & sake. Open Sun noon-10, Mon thru Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Laura's Bluebonnet Kitchen 5408 Burnet Rd (512-467-9552). The decor at this fifties-style diner matches its homestyle fare1 We settled on a lunch of the Cheesy BLT and a nicely tart limeade. Our companion's Toastmaster (a bacon cheeseburger on a whole-grain bun) kept him contented, as did a creamy chocolate shake, Personable, attentive service. Open Sun 7:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Mon thru Fri 6:30-2:30, Sat 7:30-2:30. Inexpensive to lower moderate. CB, DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Louie Mueller Barbecue 206 W. 2nd St (US Hwy 79), Taylor (512-352-6206). The approximately 35-mile-long drive to this classic Texas barbecue joint leads to luxuriantly juicy pork ribs, sausage, and beef brisket, made even better by an appropriately rustic atmosphere. Sides of creamy, peppery potato salad and dill pickle slices were perfect accompaniments. Beer. Open Mon thru Sat 10-6. Closed Sun. Inexpensive to moderate. MC, V. (W+)
Louie's 106 106 E. 6th St (512-476-2010). On a recent evening this swank Mediterranean bistro was a handsome retreat from stormy weather. The grilled rosemary flatbread (topped with smoked shrimp, tomatoes, and fontina) was so good we could have made a meal of a couple of orders. But we forged ahead with the Moroccan-spiced pork tenderloin medaillons with creamy whipped sweet potatoes. Bar. Open Sun 5:30-9:30, Mon thru Thur 11:15-10:30, Fri 11:15-11, Sat 5:30-11. Moderate to expensive. AE, DC, DS, MC, V (W+)
Malaga 208 W. 4th St (512-236-8020). This dark downtown wine bar evokes Mediterranean Europe with its long polished bar and oil paintings displayed salon-style. A recent sampling of tapas proved satisfying from the first bite of the meltingly tender solomillo andaluz (marinated beef tenderloin with garlic aioli) to the last piece of the pimiento sevillano (roasted pimientos stuffed with cream cheese and dotted with capers). Bar. Open Mon thru Wed 5-10 (bar until midnight), Thur thru Sat 5-11 (bar until 2 a.m.). Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Starlite 624 W. 34th St (512-374-9012). Hordes of youthful diners have already discovered this pretty new restaurant in a vintage house. We began well with a starter of firecracker shrimp accompanied by coconut rice and peanut sauce. Entrees shone too: grilled lamb loin atop a savory tomato flapjack with mustard hollandaise, and seared diver scallops paired with blue-corn noodles and scallion-lime cream. Bar. Open Mon thru Sat 6-11. Sun brunch noon-5. Upper moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Taco Xpress 2529 S. Lamar (512-444-0261). This soulful South Austin taqueria offers first-rate enchiladas, gorditas, and crispy tacos. On weekend mornings bleary-eyed late-nighters and perky athletic types alike line up amid the funky knickknacks to order breakfast tacos (try the migas version). Liquor & beer only. Open Sun 9 a.m.-2 pm., Mon 7-3, Tue thru Fri 7-10, Sat 8-10. Inexpensive. No Cr. (W+) With assistance on patio.
(*) Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Our night out at this intimate converted house began with an appetizer special of sweet-potato gnocchi, but we found the little dumplings inherently bland despite several flavorful additions. Our entree special of rare seared tuna, though nicely prepared and spiced, wasn't the triumph we expected for the price. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Expensive. Cr. (W)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Places to try this month.
Eddie V's Edgewater Grille 301 E. 5th St (512-472-1860). This elegant, spacious seafood and steak house with a Southern edge (from the founders of Z'Tejas) is already making its mark. As if synchronized, tuxedo-jacketed waiters delivered our appetizers--succulent batter-fried lobster tail and crawfish beignets. Our jumbo lump-crab cakes were entirely comprised of luscious fresh crab, and our companion's eight-ounce filet mignon was faultless. Broccoli with hollandaise, served a la carte, was large enough for two and so pretty that we almost hesitated to eat it. Well-orchestrated, if leisurely, service. Bar. Open Sun 5:30-10, Mon thru Sat 5:30-11. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Kimchi Sushi Lincoln Village, 6406 N. 1-35 (512-453-4111). This pleasant new family-run Korean restaurant expands the city's sushi options both numerically and geographically. The ikura (salmon roe) and maguro (tuna) were impeccably fresh, and our vegetarian friend loved her vegetable rolls (with avocado, carrot, and fresh asparagus). Moving onto Korean dishes, we kept the sub-aqueous theme going with an entree of fried spicy squid, then came ashore with flavorful stir-fried bulgoki (thinly sliced beef and scallions in a tangy brown sauce). Several tables have built-in grills for do-it-yourself cooking. Beer, wine & sake. Open Sun noon-10, Mon thru Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Beaumont -- Port Arthur
[UPDATE] Colichia's Italian Village 2839 Nall, Port Neches (409-727-2720). Nostalgia spurred a visit here, but some of the other newer Italian restaurants now do a better job of keeping up with the times. An order of veal Parmesan had all the kick of a slice of Iowa meatloaf, and shrimp with garlic sauce--usually a zesty order--required a liberal dose of salt and red pepper. One further plaint: Charging two dollars for an extra loaf of garlic bread strikes us as cheeky. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon thru Thur 5-9, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Donau 545 S. 11th, Beaumont (409-813-3233). "Donau" is Vietnamese for Danube and the menu here, like the river in Europe, runs from west to east. Start with the creamy soup of oyster mushrooms and pecans. After that, just close your eyes and point. Likely landing spots might be one of the Vietnamese noodle dishes (bun) or one of two mussel entrees (gratine or mariniere). Beer & wine (well-chosen list). Open Mon thru Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Elena's 1865 College, Beaumont (409-832-1203). Elena's has the most complete Tex-Mex menu in the area, and space enough to accommodate the resulting lunch crowds. For an appetizer, we recommend queso fundido--a cheese casserole laced with chorizo and bacon--though afterward you may find an entree superfluous. There are an even dozen platters of carnes al carbon, ranging from chicken to pork chops to steak and shrimp. Combination plates are inexpensive but there's no stinting on quantity. Bar. Open Mon thru Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
The Homestead US Hwy 69, Hillister (409-283-7324). The limited menu at this converted Big Thicket dogtrot house includes chicken-fried steak, catfish, and ribeyes. But what it lacks in variety it makes up for in quality. The fried shrimp is crisp, and there are specials on Sundays--all-you-can-eat chicken and dumplings on a recent visit. By the way, "wine list" in Tyler County is spelled d-r-y. Open Sun 11-3, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Mon thru Thur. Inexpensive. DS, MC, V. (W+)
Swampee's Bayou 4120 College, Beaumont (409-842-0500). Sixty-two (count em!) TVs assure that you won't miss your favorite sporting event. Try one of many cajun-accented finger foods like shrimp on the half shell (jalapenos stuffed with boiled shrimp and cottage cheese) served with remoulade sauce. We especially recommend the grilled jumbo shrimp as an entree. Bar. Open Sun thru Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) But not all areas.
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Places to try this month.
Gourmet Goodies 4405 Calder, Beaumont (409-892-6980). This clean, well-lighted place (the only deli in a three-mile radius) is a good choice for mid-morning coffee and a homemade pastry (give the muffins a close look). Visit at lunchtime for sandwiches, soups, and salads. Of the latter, we especially like the spinach salad, laden with sliced boiled eggs and bacon and drizzled with lemon juice. Open Mon thru Fri 9-5:30, Sat 9-3. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Big Bend
[UPDATE] Cafe Cenizo Gage Hotel, 102 US Hwy 90W, Marathon (915-386-4437). Finally, a really good meal at a reasonable price--a grilled catfish filet (buttery yet light) with a salad of mixed baby greens dressed in vinaigrette and sides of roasted corn and mashed potatoes for only $10.95. Unfortunately, the Western decor comes at the expense of customer comfort--hardwood floors and walls decorated with guns and horse tack ricochet every sound. For an old home, it has a strangely cold and uninviting feeling. Bar. Breakfast Mon thru Fri 7-11, Sat & Sun 7-10. Dinner Mon thru Fri 6-9, Sat & Sun 6-10. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Phoenix Cafe FM 170 at the Terlingua Store, Terlingua Ghost Town (915-371-2251)....
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