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COPYRIGHT 2001 Texas Monthly, Inc.
A SELECTIVE GUIDE TO FOOD AND DRINK
Austin
Eastside Cafe 2113 Manor Rd (512-476-5858). A recent evening at this charming old house saw one of us trying the seafood cannelloni special, bits of salmon and shrimp tucked inside pasta then topped with a saffron sauce on one side and a roasted-tomato sauce on the other. The other went for flavorful pork tenderloin sided by a majestic acorn squash splashed with a ginger-soy sauce. Beer & wine. Open Sun 10-10, Mon thru Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Sat & Sun brunch 10-3. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Eddie V's Edgewater Grille 301 E. 5th St (512-472-1860). This new elegant seafood and steakhouse (from the founders of Z'Tejas) is making its mark. Tuxedo-jacketed waiters delivered jumbo lump-crab cakes (an entree) entirely comprised of luscious fresh crab. Our companion's eight-ounce filet mignon was faultless. Well-orchestrated, if leisurely, service. Bar. Open Sun 5:30-10, Mon thru Sat 5:30-11. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Granite Cafe 2905 San Gabriel (512-472-6483) Brunch on the balcony of this contemporary upstairs venue was superb. Our companion deemed his pork medallions on potato pancakes and fried eggs a cholesterol fest, but said, "At least I get to see heaven before I die." Dinner was pleasant, if less ambitious; we tried the warm spinach salad and beef tenderloin. Bar. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11:30-2:30 (light fare 2:30-5:30). Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon thru Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11:30-3. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Green Mesquite 1400 Barton Springs Rd (512-479-0485), 7010 Texas Hwy 71W (512-288-8300), and Scholz Garten, 1607 San Jacinto Blvd (512-474-1958). Luckily, not much ever changes here. Armed with a beer, we sampled the turkey, brisket, ribs, and mustardy potato salad, all bursting with flavor. Beer & wine. Barton Springs: Open 7 days 11-10. Call for hours at other locations. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Gumbo's 710 Colorado (512-480-8053). An hour for a table? No problem. We went next door to the sophisticated Brown Bar for a drink. Oysters Rockefeller were above par, and the fish Michael featured tilapia pan-sauteed in lemon pepper and topped with crawfish. Bar. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun 5:30-10, Mon thru Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
(*)Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Inspired by the exotic regional cuisine at this charming Hill Country classic, our companion tried the signature appetizer of rattlesnake cakes. Beef tenderloin was elegantly topped with smoked lobster; the peppercorn-crusted ribeye, however, was unappetizingly fatty. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue thru Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
(**)Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Our friend had the veal ossobuco with montasio sage polenta, and we loved our entree salad of small crab cakes atop mixed greens and roasted peppers with goat-cheese vinaigrette. Low-key, stylish setting. (If your travels take you to Washington, D.C., you'll feel right at home at the newly opened Jeffrey's at the Watergate Hotel, where chef de cuisine Robert Rhodes is introducing the locals to crispy oysters with habanero aioli.) Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon thru Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11:30. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $50 & $75). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Kimchi Sushi Lincoln Village, 6406 1-35N (512-453-4111). This pleasant family-run Korean restaurant expands the city's sushi options--all we tried were impeccably fresh. We kept the subaqueous theme going with a Korean entree of fried spicy squid, then came ashore with flavorful stir-fried bulgoki (thinly sliced beef and scallions in a tangy brown sauce). Beer, wine & sake. Open Sun noon-10, Mon thru Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat noon-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Portabla 1200 W. 6th (512-481-8646). From this casual take-out-or-dine-in spot, we took home a deliciously crisp salad of greens dressed in one of the best balsamic vinaigrettes we've tasted, cold chicken pasta (the chicken was stringy and tasted a tad old), and an unusual take on margherita pizza (this version offered pesto sauce). Relaxed service. Open Mon thru Sat 8-8. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V.
Ranch 616 616 Nueces (512-479-7616). This stylishly kitschy spot is what a Texas-theme New York restaurant might look like. The Black Angus ribeye pleased; so did the snapper Victoria, a sauteed filet in veracruzana sauce. Appetizers run from slightly offbeat (frogs' legs) to the usual (bacon-wrapped shrimp). Open Mon thru Wed 11-2 & 5:30-10, Thur thru Sat 11-2 & 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Star Canyon Stephen E Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-391-1550). Just in time to become a prime lobbyist schmoozing venue, this sleek Dallas import has opened in downtown Austin. The Texas Cuisine specials--velvety pecan-smoked pork tenderloin, fantastic salmon marinated in a mixture of brown sugar, soy, jalapenos, and garlic--were first-rate. Service is affable and knowledgeable. Bar. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun thru Wed 5:30-10, Thur thru Sat 5:30-11. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Starlite 624 W. 34th St (512-374-9012). We arrived at this small cottage with rough-wood walls just before the rush. Our starters of cucumber avocado nori rolls and luscious chevre crostini with asparagus in balsamic syrup indicated more good things to come. The shiitake-crusted snapper--moist and firm--with truffled udon noodles was brilliant. Our only quibbles were a stale-tasting slice of orange cake and small portions (we needed reading glasses to find one entree). Service is friendly, customers groovy. Bar. Open Mon thru Sat 6-11. Sun brunch noon-5. Upper moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
(*)Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). We started with light and delicately spiced fried oysters at this casual but stylish spot. Next came a watercress salad with goat cheese and julienne beets. The sea scallops entree served over rice noodles with bok choy, cilantro, and lemongrass was a near success--the scallops themselves were delicious--but the rest of the dish was bland. Tender boneless duck breast was superb, however. Beer & wine (pricey wine list). Open 7 days 5:30-10. Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Ararat 111 E. North Loop (512-419-1692). The rich food, slightly askew floor, and shimmying belly dancer can make you feel positively tipsy at this funky little spot. On that note, we began with the Drinker's Choice, a sweet sesame dip with touches of pomegranate and topped with marinated figs. Two of us then shared Ararat's Combo, a starchy feast with bulgur, white rice, chilled lima beans, and short green beans plus baba ganouj and excellent hummus. Stuffed figs and a slice of the lemon-kissed baklava made a divine ending. Belly dancing Thur thru Sun. BYOB. Open Tue thru Sun 5-11. Closed Men. Moderate. Cr. (W) With assistance.
Tam Deli and Cafe 8222 N. Lamar (512-834-6458). This is the quintessential clean well-lighted place, but the food is anything but sterile. There are the usual Vietnamese-style noodle soups, and much more. Steamed-rice-cake wraps recalled the morsels found on a dim sum cart (we didn't just like, we loved the black-mushroom-and-ground-pork version). Crunchy stir-fried egg noodles and French bread sandwiches are also worth a try. Flashback to appetizers: A fabulous "crepe" with shrimp and bean sprouts was like an airy egg foe yung. Open Sun, Mon & Wed thru Sat 10-8. Closed Tue. Inexpensive. MC, V. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
Brad's Place 2306 Hazel at 7th, Beaumont (409-839-8100). This converted shop in Old Town has enough raw edges to make you feel positively bohemian. From the many offerings, we tried a peppered beef filet with garlic shrimp accompanied by an assortment Of goodies--artichoke hearts, grape leaves, olives, roasted peppers, feta, and a mound of roasted garlic potatoes. BYOB. Lunch Tue thru Fri 11-2. Dinner Tue thru Fri 5-9, Sat 11-9. Closed Sun & Men. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Carlo's 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). We always start with the Greek sampler plate--meatballs, dolmas, fried zucchini and cheese, and an antipasto of olives and artichoke hearts. A veal piccata (ordered off the menu) came with an abundance of tart capers, and petti di polio alla fiorentina proved tender bits of breaded chicken breast sauteed with artichoke hearts and served over linguine. A companion's crepe-thin stuffed manicotti left us yearning for more. With its compact bar and nightly piano music, Carlo's stresses coziness. Bar. Open Sun thru Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Carrabba's Italian Grill 1550 I-10S, Beaumont (409-842-556) An accidental click while navigating the company's Web site showed us that there are no Carrabba's 49 miles southwest of Oklahoma City. There are, however, numerous franchises all over the South, but don't let that deter you. We always enjoy the Northern Italian cuisine, speedy service, and informal, open-grill atmosphere here. The nightly specials are worth trying; this time a succulent grilled rainbow trout with Italian seasonings caught our eye, followed by our noses and palates. Bar. Open Sun noon-10, Mon thru Thur 4-10:30, Fri & Sat 4-11:30. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Dorothy's Front Porch from US Hwy 69, go .5 mile west on Beauxart Gardens Rd, turn right on Holmes Rd, Nederland (409-722-1472). Parts of the surrounding area could use some urban renewal, but the spacious lakefront fish camp remains an inviting, if strictly utilitarian, spot for dinner. The gumbo and seafood entrees are so good that you almost forget that you can't get a beer to go with them. Practically everything on the menu--from fish to fowl--is available charcoal-broiled, but do try the crisp, puffy fried shrimp, which outdo any in the area. The salad bar offers a wonderful spicy coleslaw and pickled green tomatoes. Open Sun 11-9, Tue thru Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-9:30. Closed Men. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Johnny Carino's 3805 I-10S, Beaumont (409-842-1919). The low lights and tasteful woodwork here make for a fairly cozy atmosphere. The menu is "country Italian" with an emphasis on chicken, veal, and shrimp. We tried chicken florentine (with loads of fresh spinach) and a wonderful order of spicy shrimp and chicken. Bar. Open Sun thru Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
L&T 1705 College at Ave D, Beaumont (409-835-7170). The Chinese food buffet is fine, but we love the extensive Vietnamese menu. Begin with spring rolls, move on to one of the noodle soups, and finish with a meat and rice plate. Of the excellent entrees, our favorites are the various cuts of pork. (Wait till you see what the chef here can do with a humble pork chop.) Beer & wine. Open Mon thru Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Rosita's 5253 S. Staples St (361-906-1007). Traditional Tex-Mex is the staple at this colorful, bustling spot. A platter of cheesy enchiladas swathed in thick chile con came made for a filling lunch. A companion's chicken fajitas were perfectly grilled, and the flour tortillas were warm and fresh. Beer & wine. Open Sun 6-6, Mon thru Thur 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Fri & Sat 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Small Planet Delicatessen 3850 S, Alameda (361-855-1892). This art-filled deli has a following devoted to its creative salads, sandwiches, and monster-size muffins. Our favorite pesto pizza beckoned, but we opted for a cracker-bread sandwich--a cross section of tortilla-like bread wrapped around roasted turkey, Colby jack cheese, and cream cheese. Open Mon thru Fri 7-6, Sat 8-5. Closed Sun. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Snoopy's Pier 13313 S. Padre Island Dr (361-949-8815). On a recent rainy weekend we cozied up to a blazing fire. On sunny days the deck overlooking the Laguna Madre beckons. We ordered and paid, then dug into a great burger and a sandwich of golden-fried crisp shrimp topped with sliced cheese and tarter sauce. The accompanying order of onion rings did us in. Whew! Expect a wait on weekend nights. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 11-10. Inexpensive. Cash only. (W)
Thailand 5506 Saratoga Blvd (361-980-0404). Paper lanterns and fans set an Asian mood. We began with delicious glass chicken soup--so named for the transparent noodles in the broth. The ginger stir-fry was a fiery combination of thinly sliced beef, onion, zucchini, and mushrooms served with steamed rice. Beer & wine. Lunch Men thru Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Mon thru Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Wahooz 415 N. Water St (361-888-8522). This noisy downtown restaurant with its mural of the Vieux Carre offers such dishes as fried crawfish tails and shrimp poorboys. Great for lunch is the peppery blackened salmon salad with romaine and dirty rice dressed with peppercorn and sprinkles of toasted pecans. Save room for bread pudding with Jim Beam sauce. Beer & wine. Open Sun noon-8, Mon thru Sat 11-10. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W)
Water Street Oyster Bar 309 N. Water St (361-881-9448). On a recent trip to this downtown seafood eatery we were encouraged by the mural of Venus rising from the Corpus Christi Bay. We dove passionately into our grilled mahimahi (perfectly firm yet flaky) served with rice pilaf and steamed winter vegetables. Bar. Open Sun thru Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Dallas
Adelmo's 4537 Cole (214-559-0325). What a meal! Crisp but succulent crab cakes were accented with an envelope-pushing harissa cream sauce and pesto, and the ravioli, black with squid ink, contained generous portions of lobster swathed in a lightly spicy Fra Diavolo sauce. Bar. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon thru Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr.
Al Biernat's 4217 Oak Lawn (214-219-2201). Peerless hospitality and high-quality steaks and seafood make this clubby spot a popular hangout for the mature, prosperous set. Our creamy risotto, generously supplied with lobster chunks and topped with a huge pan-roasted filet of sea bass, was superb. Bar. Open Sun 6-9:30, Mon thru Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri 11:30-11:30, Sat 6-11:30. Very expensive. Cr. (W+)
Al's Pizzeria 3701 W. Northwest Hwy (Loop 12) (214-350-2714). Don't expect luxe ambience, just good Italian cooking. Our slice of pizza had a spectacular crust and was groaning under the weight of sausage, garlic, spinach, and anchovies. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-10, Mon thru Thur 10-10, Fri & Sat 10-11. Inexpensive to moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Arcodoro and Pomodoro 2708 Routh (214-871-1924). The Arcodoro portion vibrates with energy while the Pomodoro area soothes. Al dente spinach linguine with crabmeat was splendid in a spicy rosy tomato sauce, and we think the tiramisu here is the best in town. Bar. Open Sun thru Wed 6-11, Thur thru Sat 6-midnight. Moderate to expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Beau Nash Hotel Crescent Court, 2200 Cedar Springs at Pearl (214-871-3240). The hotel's flagship restaurant is one of the city's priciest lunch venues. Given that, we expected the kitchen to keep the orders straight, but our soup (admittedly tasty) proved to be corn and smoked chicken--we had ordered roasted-vegetable. An ahi tuna sandwich offered good flavor. Bar. Open Sun 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon thru Thur 6:30 am.-10:30 p.m. (late-night menu until 2 a.m.). Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W+)
Bistral 2900 McKinney at Allen St (214-220-1202). An abundance of fontina cheese overpowered the smoked salmon omelet it was paired with. Luckily, a sour cream-topped spinach-and-potato pancake and greens in a lemony vinaigrette rescued the entree. Bar. Lunch Mon thru Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon thru Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Sun brunch 10-3. Moderate to expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Cafe Istanbul 5450 W. Lovers Ln (214-902-0919). An unorthodox chopped green salad (almost purged) came with our beyti kebap, portions of ground lamb and beef seasoned with onion, red peppers, parsley, and Turkish crushed pepper. The rice pilaf would have been quite tasty except for the strange inclusion of shreds of raw onion. Beer & wine. Lunch Sun & Tue thru Sat 11:30-2. Dinner Sun & Tue thru Sat 5-10. Closed Men. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W+)
Cafe Pacific Highland Park Village, southwest corner of Preston & Mockingbird (214-526-1170). Seafood gumbo...
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