PARIS DISPATCHES.

LOUIS FERAUD: Simplicity isn't a word in Yvan Mispelaere's design vocabulary. When faced with the decision, on his second couture outing for Feraud, of whether to rein in his wild imagination or pile on a few more frills and furbelows, he opted for the latter. In the program notes, Mispelaere cited a panoply of divergent inspirations, ranging from "African dandyism" and Surrealism to the "truncated prose of William Burroughs." Truncated, indeed -- with a dash of Nicolas Ghesquiere, Balenciaga's hot designer, thrown in for good measure. That influence was evident in the Mispelaere's lingerie looks, which were ultimately the best of the show. Otherwise, the deconstructed silhouettes were overwrought and even clown-like in the designer's bubble gum palette and penchant for strange collage.

HANAE MORI: Showing in the intimate setting of her Place de l'Alma atelier, Hanae Mori used bolts of silk gauze, tulle, organza and sheer silk to create an airy summer couture collection. ...