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BEFORE THE AGE of Democracy, before the French and American revolutions, it was the positive duty of emperors, kings and princes both secular and clerical to build beautiful palaces and ornament their cities with great works of art. Salzburg in Austria is a brilliant example of that philosophy being put into practice down the centuries by its rulers, the powerful prince archbishops. It is still a little gem of baroque architecture set in a wealthy province, rich in mountains and lakes as well as salt.
Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, who pushed through the city plan which gave Salzburg open squares, gardens, palaces and the great churches that we know today, was a ...