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YEGEN: A SPANISH PILGRIMAGE.(following in Gerald Brenan's footsteps)(Critical Essay)

Quadrant

| July 01, 2001 | JENKIN, ANN TIMONEY | COPYRIGHT 2001 Quadrant Magazine Company, Inc. This material is published under license from the publisher through the Gale Group, Farmington Hills, Michigan.  All inquiries regarding rights should be directed to the Gale Group. (Hide copyright information)Copyright

I HAVE NEVER SEEN a more beautiful country than this Spain," the English writer Gerald Brenan wrote in December 1919. He had just spent two months walking the mule tracks across the Alpujarra mountains, suffering from dysentery and being bitten by bedbugs and fleas. Finally, he found a house to rent in the remote village of Yegen. "In such a country one can breathe." It was to be his home for the next fifteen years.

While in southern Spain I am determined to make a pilgrimage to Yegen. A bus leaves Granada every evening--winding its way up the mountains, passing through many of the remote villages including Yegen. It's a four-hour journey.

The Spanish ...

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