RESTAURANT guide.(Directory)

Publication: Texas Monthly

Publication Date: 01-OCT-01

Bookmark this article Print this article Link to this article Email this article Digg It! Add to del.icio.us RSS

COPYRIGHT 2001 Texas Monthly, Inc.

A SELECTIVE GUIDE TO FOOD AND DRINK

Policies and Definitions

The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list, not by the editors of this column. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.

Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale

(***) Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.

(**) Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.

(*) One star designates an extremely good restaurant.

AE: American Express. CB: Carte Blanche. DC: Diners Club. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.

Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.

Wheelchair Accessibility

(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.

(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.

(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.

(No symbol) This place is not accessible.

Austin

[UPDATE] Cafe Josie 1200 W. 6th (512-322-9226). Our most recent meal at this minimalist but inviting spot may have been the best yet. The starter of delicious herb-crusted goat cheese with cilantro pesto and bruschetta indicated good things to come, a promise borne out by pepita redfish (firm meat and flaky crust) with almond pilaf. The standout, though, was the faultless mesquite-grilled beef tenderloin rubbed with guajillo chile and served atop a bed of cotija black beans. Service was smart and polished. Beer & wine. Lunch Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

[UPDATE] Curra's 6801 N. Burnet. (512-451-2560) and 614 E. Oltorf (512-444-0012). This new northside sibling of the Oltorf original maintains the popular cafe's flair for interior Mexican cuisine and decor. En route to the restaurant, our companion fantasized about her anticipated entree--cochinita pibil, or "barbecued" pork prettily served atop a banana leaf--and once there she relished every bite. We did fine with the fish tacos, succulent pieces of grilled mahimahi and poblano strips tucked inside fresh corn tortillas. Bar. Open Sun 9 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 9-11. Call for hours at other location. Moderate to upper moderate. Cr. (W+)

Fonda San Miguel 2330 W. North Loop Blvd (512-459-4121). A recent weeknight found us cozying up to the neon-lit bar and munching tostadas de cochinita pibil (corn tortillas topped with black beans and achiote-seasoned pork), When our table was ready we split the sarape de pate, shredded roast duck and chipotle layered with corn tortillas. Bar. Open Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)

(*) Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). It's always a treat to eat at this cozy cottage. We dined lightly on incredible quesadillas filled with chunks of smoked lobster and goat cheese, while our companion raved over his velvety lamb chops served with a trio of sauces (chipotle cream, marigold mustard, and bush tomato). Bar. Dinner Sun & Men 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends, Expensive. Cr. (W+)

Iron Works Barbecue 100 Red River (512-478-4855). The smell of wood smoke always fills us with anticipation at this creekside barbecue joint. The chicken and brisket are exceptional--and much touted in framed articles on the walls. To wash it all down, grab a Big Red from the open coolers. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. Inexpensive to lower moderate. AE, MC, V. (W)

[UPDATE] (**) Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). When a restaurant is this good, you sometimes find yourself saying, "Okay, dazzle me." On our last visit, the kitchen obliged: A friend went for the tall crab cakes on a salad of mixed greens tastily garnished with rajas (seared chile strips), baby carrots, kiwi, and jicama in pineapple-basil vinaigrette. Duck in porcini sauce with shrimp arrived looking almost charred, but the treatment rendered the flesh moist and exceptionally flavorful. A lovely light raspberry rose creme brulee proved that this dessert needn't resemble library paste. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $50 & $75). Cr. (W) With assistance.

Las Manitas 211 Congress (512-472-9357). Some downtown workers practically board at this simple cafe, coming back on weekend mornings for the huevos rancheros. We can't get enough of the wonderful enchiladas de Michoacan, chicken or white cheese in a lightly piquant tomato-chile sauce. Beer. Open Sun 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Mon-Fri 7-4, Sat 7-2:30. Inexpensive, AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W)

[UPDATE] Louie's 106 106 E. 6th (512-476-2010). Distinctive mesquite-smoked salmon on a bed of baby field greens with horseradish cream made a fine start to our lunch at this refined downtown Mediterranean bistro. We were sated by the ever-dependable chicken Cobb salad, while our companion smiled contentedly over his braised beef tenderloin tips with asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes. Bar. Open Sun 5:30-9:30, Mon-Thur 11:15-10:30, Fri 11:15-11, Sat 5:30-11. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)

Mars 1610 San Antonio (512-472-3901). This little spot with a red motif always rocks. We began our low-key evening with good potstickers, followed by tandoori pork tenderloin marinated in soy, sake, honey, star anise, and cloves. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

[UPDATE] Peony Asian Cuisine 5308 Balcones Dr (512-459-3341). Expecting to find a typical menu, we were pleasantly surprised by the vast selection of postmodern Asian dishes offered in a setting that matches the kitchen's creative bent. The star appetizer was a plump lumpia roll, a deep-fried Philippine-style egg roll. The special entree of lamb rewarded us with tender meat stir-fried with fresh ginger, asparagus, and snow peas. The presentation of the Petite Sea Dragon, shrimp in an aluminum foil boat, added fun. BYOB. Open Sun 11-9:30, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Upper moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

[UPDATE] Sarovar 8440 Burnet Rd (512-454-8636). We avoided struggling through the many appetizers and a la carte items by ordering "dinner," which included a main course and thali (a platter filled with a curry plus soup, rice, and yummy pieces of naan). Our entree choice, tandoori chicken, was flavorful but not spectacular. Fortunately, we had better luck with the lamb Sarovar sauteed in a spicy gravy with green peppers and onion. The decor is simple, service somewhat slow. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-10, Mon-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-10, Sat 11-10. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

[UPDATE] Sullivan'a 300 Colorado (512-495-6504). While we greatly enjoyed our crab cake appetizer, we found Sullivan's signature iceberg wedge salad with blue cheese dressing less than exciting and a bit passe. We found no fault, however, with the nicely cooked filet with crabmeat and asparagus or the grilled pork chop with delectable glazed apples. Though overall our meal was above par, the experience was marred by an obnoxious, exceedingly pushy server who pressed us to order extras that we didn't really want. Bar. Dinner Sun 5-11, Mon-Fri 5:30-11, Sat 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)

Wink 1014 N. Lamar (512-482-8868). Brio Vista chef Stewart Scruggs and pastry chef Mark Paul have gone out on their own with this small, smartly casual venue. Highlights included baby spinach salad (with balsamic roasted figs and Stilton cheese) and authentic duck confit ("The best since France," said its happy recipient). Beer & wine. Dinner Mon-Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Moderate to lower expensive. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)

(*) Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Our appetizer--smoked salmon with purple new potatoes, fennel, and white-truffle oil--outshone our entree. The duck breast with balsamic rhubarb compote and greens was rarer than the requested "medium." Exceptionally competent service. Beer & wine. Dinner 7 days 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W)

[UPDATE] Z'Tejas 9400 Arboretum Blvd (512-346-3506) and 1110 W. 6th (512-478-5355). A sweeping vista and plenty of parking lend the Arboretum location extra appeal. The best part of our meal came at the beginning: a fabulous special of tuna and salmon ceviche marinated in lime and tequila. Our expectation level had been upped by that, as well as the hype this Southwestern restaurant often receives, so our companion was surprised that his pork tenderloin in red-wine sauce was nothing special. As for our entree of crab-stuffed shrimp, the wasabi blackberry sauce was the dish's main selling point. Bar. Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Call for hours at other location. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)

SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT

Bouldin Creek Coffeehouse 1501 S. 1st (512-416-1601). This quintessential South Austin spot, with its groovy purple-and-lime color scheme and backyard patio, boasts an enticing vegetarian menu. Order at the counter, then grab a board game or peruse one of the many used books while you wait. We were keen on the hearty grilled cheddar-and-jack-cheese sandwich with fresh spinach and basil and the terrific raspberry-honey lemonade; our friend went for the Porto Po-boy sandwich. We're already on our way back to try breakfast. Beer & wine. Sun 9 a.m.-midnight, Mon-Tue 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Wed-Fri 7-midnight, Sat 9-midnight. Inexpensive. MC, V. (W)

Habanero Mexican Cafe 501 W. Oltorf (512-416-0443). Inside this brightly painted house turned Mexican restaurant, servers ferry out steaming plates of enchiladas and fajitas to eager patrons. Once our food arrived, we smiled too. Our companion devoured his lightly fried chicken flautas (the rice and refried beans disappeared as well), and our carne guisada was thick, with just the right amount of zing. We wished we could go home to take a nap instead of heading back to the office. Open Sun & Mon 7-3, Tue-Sat 7-5. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

Madam Mam's 2514 Guadalupe at Dean Keeton (512-472-8306). This space on the Drag has been reincarnated several times, but this fast-food Thai restaurant may stick around. The decor is nonexistent, but the prices are right for students and others on a budget. Our keow wan curry with chicken and rice tasted fine but was really hot. Our companion tried to make a dent in the huge bowl of guay teaw gai toon--tasty flat noodles with shredded chicken in a five-spice stock--but couldn't come close. Open Sun noon-9:30, Mon-Fri 11-9:30, Sat noon-9:30. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

Beaumont-Port Arthur

Amelia 8350 College, Beaumont (409-866-2770). For a country-style breakfast, a steam-table lunch, or a chicken-fried-steak dinner, you can't beat this blue-collar cafe. The quality of the legendary burgers dates back to a day when you ordered via a window off the parking lot. Open Sun 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Mon-Wed 6-4, Thur & Fri 6-9, Sat 6-4. Inexpensive. AE, DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)

[UPDATE] Cody's 6680 Calder, Beaumont (409-866-8511) and 3130 N. 16th, Orange (409-883-2267). Cody's has long been one of the area's best bets for casual dining, and you can't go wrong with a steak, the prime rib, or one of the half-pound burgers (try the Juan Valdez for a spicy wake-up call). The quality of the seafood has been variable, but this time we applauded the snapper New Orleans with its creamy crawfish etouffee. Bar. Beaumont: Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Orange: Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W)

Pearl Street Cafe 489 Pearl, Beaumont (409-835-6116). This first entry in downtown's up-and-coming entertainment district boasts high ceilings and a friendly bar, and the menu features daily lunch specials, sandwiches, and burger baskets. The Italian sausage "Peaux Boy" struck us as a fittingly spicy accompaniment to the live music (Thursdays through Saturdays beginning around 9 p.m.). Bar. Open Mon-Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-2. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

Tamale Company 6025 Phelan Blvd, Beaumont (409-866-8033). The deck here is a good place to relax while downing one of the Company's Tex-Mex or Cajun specialties. Grilled quail, broiled snapper, and crawfish etouffee all tempt. Or play it simple with the tender came guisada (chunks of round beef stewed with onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes). Bar. Open Sun 11-9, Mon-Sat 11-10. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)

SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT

Key West Restaurant and Bar 315 I-10N, Beaumont (409-835-5178). This new spot, occupying Steak and Ale's former digs, has been lavishly re-furnished. The comfortable bar is lightened considerably with stained-glass windows and appropriate parrot-motif ornamentation. With everything from fajitas to gumbo to fried alligator, the dinner menu covers the Gulf Coast extensively. For lunch, try a shrimp or oyster poorboy with a cup of peppery crawfish bisque. A frozen margarita is de rigueur at any hour. Bar. Open 7 days 11-10. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) Variable.

Corpus Christi

[UPDATE] Blue Swan Deli 320 William (361-887-7662). This casual deli, with framed Mardi Gras posters on its redbrick walls, specializes in great sandwiches and coffee drinks. We loved the New Orleans-style muffuletta, a marinated olive salad atop sliced salami and spicy capicollo ham on French bread. The accompanying slightly salty carrot-and-raisin salad proved tasty too. Save room for the decadent Bavarian cream puff filled with vanilla pudding. Open Mon-Fri 8-3, Sat 10-3. Inexpensive. AE, MC, V. (W)

Catfish Charlie's 5830 McArdle (361-993-0363). Amid red-and-white-checked vinyl tablecloths and rough-hewn wooden floors, guests fill up on fried fish and shrimp. We recently tried the sinfully rich shrimp salad--a tasty mound of chopped shrimp, celery, and tomato in a mayonnaise-based dressing. Beer & wine. Open Sun-Tue 11-9, Wed & Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate. Cr. (W)

Luciano's 1821 S. Alameda (361-882-3191). We began a recent meal at this midtown Italian eatery with thinly sliced ciabatta, an Italian bread, and thick chunks of Gorgonzola and asiago cheese. The meatball sandwich--melted mozzarella and tomato sauce on thinly sliced oval rounds of airy white bread--rated a thumbs-up. Terrazo floors and crisp white tablecloths provide a smart atmosphere. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. MC, V. (W)

[UPDATE] Tandoor 5301 Everhart (361-857-6700). At Tandoor (recently reopened under new management) we noshed on hot naan before moving on to delectable kadai shrimp--bite-size crustaceans sauteed with onions, tomatoes, and spices and served with a thick curry sauce and basmati rice. A companion's lamb kashmiri failed to include the promised raisins and nuts. We found the portions a bit stingy for the price; a better bargain--with more items to sample--is the $6.95 lunch buffet. Lunch 7 days 11:30-2:30. Dinner 7 days 6-10. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)

SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT

Santiago's 5702 S. Staples (361-991-9766). Mexican flags and a new menu have transformed a former cajun restaurant into a Tex-Mex eatery. Chalupas, fajitas, and carne guisada make up most of the offerings; we particularly like the thick, homemade tortilla chips that form the basis of the hearty nachos laden with refried beans and melted cheddar cheese. We were surprised by the basket of warm, yeasty rolls that accompanied each meal, but we approved nonetheless. Too few waiters resulted in slow service. Beer,...

Read the full article for free courtesy of your local library.