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COPYRIGHT 2001 Texas Monthly, Inc.
Fiery sunsets with brilliant orange, purple, and fuchsia brushstrokes cast a pink hue over the architecture of what was once a northern outpost of Mexico. Travelers come here to indulge in great Southwestern food, to wander art galleries and see with new eyes, to dive into a different culture and experience the spirituality of the ancient civilizations that have left their mark on this land and forever shaped its future.
Naturally, we're talking about San Antonio. The mystique and Spanish flavor of this region date back more than 300 years, to 1691, when Spanish explorers and missionaries discovered the river on the feast day of Saint Anthony and named it, and consequently the city, in the revered saint's honor. The native inhabitants, known as Coahuiltecans, lived here long before the Spanish arrived. Their customs, which blended with the Spanish and Mexican cultures, have become long-standing traditions that are skillfully woven into everyday life.
Even if you don't speak a word of Spanish when you arrive, one of your vacation triumphs will surely be learning to get through a Spanish-laced menu (not to mention making your way around paseos, caminos, rios, and plazas). To navigate the city, begin with a walk on the world-renowned Paseo del Rio (River Walk), or launch your visit with a Yanaguana river cruise. The name derives from the Native American word for "refreshing waters," referring to the life-giving San Antonio River that once nurtured the peoples who lived here before the Spanish padres officially founded the city in 1718.
Today, its banks flow with visitors ducking into shops, selecting souvenirs, pausing to enjoy the European ambience; the River Walk is often compared to Venice or Paris. Sidewalk cafes and restaurants line more than two miles of the river, shaded by a canopy of old cypress, oak, and willow trees growing as much as 20 feet below San Antonio's hectic downtown street level.
Relatively new is an elevator that descends near the Alamo Plaza to the river level, particularly useful for families with strollers and those with handicaps or wheelchairs.
If you need directions, find a friendly Amigo, one of the city's roving ambassadors, who can provide you with information or point you to the city's Visitor Information Center directly across from the Alamo. You'll emerge with free maps, brochures, and schedules of events for San Antonio's attractions and cultural highlights.
CULTURAL AFFAIRS
In Brackenridge Park, the Witte Museum boasts the wonderful H-E-B Science Treehouse, which offers several floors chock full of educational activities and views overlooking the park. Children love to sit inside the giant dinosaur footprint replica and see the great beasts assembled in the main gallery. Enjoy exhibits ranging from the Egyptians (complete with a mummy) to a collection of Texas paintings, one of which was exhibited at the White House. Take the children to see the log cabin behind the Witte and the butterfly garden. A permanent exhibit on the five regions of Texas displays native wildlife year-round. The Witte rotates special exhibits throughout the year.
Once the Mediterranean-style home of San Antonio's leading philanthropist, the Marion Koogler McNay Art Museum and its 23 acres of parklike grounds are beautiful. The McNay now houses a breathtaking collection of masterpieces by Cezanne, Van Gogh, Rodin, Orozco, O'Keeffe, Monet, Picasso, Gauguin, Matisse, Diego Rivera, and other world-renowned artists. Recently renovated, the McNay will host a free family day and public celebration for the reopening of the mansion on November 4. The museum's collection of prints and drawings is one of the finest Collections in the Southwest, and the Tobin Collection of Theater Art is one of the premier collections of its kind in the country.
The San Antonio Museum of Art, affectionately known as SAMA, features "Egypt Revealed! Archaeological Treasures from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston," through November 11. Sculpture, pottery, tombs, coffins, urns, and more than 170 works of art and archaeological artifacts (some as old as 6,000 years) will be part of the exhibit, considered one of the greatest collections of ancient Egyptian art.
SAMA's Nelson A. Rockefeller Center for Latin American Art offers a collection spanning 30 centuries, with four galleries housing pre-Columbian, folk, Spanish colonial, and modern art. Equally impressive are the Asian art, American paintings, and contemporary art and sculpture.
The Southwest School of Art and Craft, established as a convent in 1851, attracts artists from South America to Canada. Workshops, exhibits, and juried art shows are some of the special programs offered in addition to a variety of classes. Galleries showcase art ranging from Latin American folk art to Texas landscapes, Western, and contemporary work. Texas artist Veronica Fernandez exhibits innovative mixed-media works that merge painting and sculpture November 15 through February 9, 2002.
ArtPace exhibits cutting-edge contemporary art and encourages emerging artists from all over the world. Blue Star Art Space, a contemporary art center, gives midcareer artists a place to display their work. Arts and Eats, one of the city's most energetic fundraisers, brings contemporary artists and local chefs together October 25 for an evening of noshing and negotiating.
You're bound to encounter your family's roots when you check out the University of Texas Institute of Texan Cultures and its showcase of 27 ethnic groups who have contributed to the cultural mosaic of Texas. Germans, Swedes, African Americans, Spaniards, Italians, Mexicans, Asians, Arabs, Indians, Scottish, French, Irish, and others have taken root and flourished in Texas. Their contributions to the development of the state of Texas are detailed in exhibits and exciting multimedia presentations. Children will enjoy the Native American tepee and the...
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