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To call them overnight sensations would be a stretch, since their history goes back a long way. But syrah and pinot grigio have swiftly risen from relative obscurity in the U.S. to become the hot wines of the moment. In supermarkets alone, sales of syrah (also called shiraz) shot up nearly 70 percent in a recent 12-month period, while pinot grigio (also called pinot gris) jumped nearly 50 percent.
Syrah's sales are still dwarfed by those of the top-selling reds, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. And among the whites, pinot grigio is a drop in the barrel compared with chardonnay, which alone accounts for about 20 percent of U.S. wine sales.
But the very ...