Not Your Grandma's Mink.

For fur lovers, the 1980s and 1990s were harsh years. Groups like PETA took to splashing ink on minks and parading hideous images of suffering animals outside fashion shows. The 1990s brought a wave of minimalism that forced many to put their pelts on layaway. But lately the controversial clothing has made a roaring comeback. For the fall/winter 2002 shows nearly all the major designers, from Gucci to Jean Paul Gaultier to Dolce & Gabbana, included fur in their collections. "We said, 'There is a phenomenon here,' and we noted it," says Carine Roitfeld, editor in chief of French Vogue, which devoted its September issue to the subject.

But the New Fur looks nothing like the old. Gone are the heavy, shapeless, ankle-length coats that could make a woman's knees buckle. Instead, designers rolled out a slew of hip, light and colorful creations at last spring's shows. Jean Paul Gaultier combined fur with jersey fabric in his "rolled pullover"--a cowl-necked top wrapped in mink spirals. For Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld unveiled a full cape of wild fur, draped over a silvery, see-through evening gown. For men, too, there was a surprising array of choices, including Dolce & Gabbana's fur-lined zip-up sweat shirt and a Martin Margiala bomber jacket ("It's very sportswear and less feminine than a cashmere coat," says Roitfeld), as well as numerous accessories, including thick fur scarves.

The trend was sparked by a series of ...