Some Sartorial Savoir-Faire.(made-to-measure shirts)(Brief Article)

It used to be that made-to-measure shirts bespoke a certain old-money stuffiness, like the male manicure or the personal butler. But nowadays even ordinary working stiffs are luxuriating in the joys of a sartorial indulgence once reserved for the rich and famous--the tailored shirt. From London's Turnbull & Asser, with its Old World clubby atmosphere, to the scores of specialty shops that line the gritty streets of Hong Kong, to chic New York upstart Seize sur Vingt, which targets a young, hyperfit crowd, an army of experts is waiting to spin out your dream garment. You know the one--with the pucker-free hemlines, the French seams and the modified side slit? Or perhaps you'd prefer an extra- long-sleeved oxford in lime green--with a secret pocket?

It's not just high style that has custom-shirt makers doing a booming business in this lousy economy. When business casual temporarily banished the blue business suit, the dress shirt remained an essential wardrobe piece and even gained importance with more exposure. Now more financial types are returning to tailors, responding to the reversal of dress-down office policies. Simon Hobbs, manager of Turnbull & Asser's New York store, points to what might be called the Pink Effect. When Thomas Pink began its expansion in the 1990s, it introduced a younger customer to the importance of a good shirt.

The options available are vast. Browse the collar choices: there's the Dore, the Continental, the Point, the Pointed Eyelet. Pick your color (lilac seems to be quite popular this year). Choose your favorite fabric thickness and texture--heavier cotton flannel for casual wear, finer Sea Island cotton for formalwear. A skilled tailor can even enhance your features: slimmer collars can elongate the face, while wider ones ...