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If you drive west along the sea in Havana, through Miramar, with its grand villas lining the boulevards, and into the chic leafy suburbs of Cubanacan--home now to embassies--you'll eventually come to a strange and magical place. Scattered across acres of rough lawn and overgrown jungle is a ghostly complex of buildings, in brick and terra cotta, with beautiful domes, vaulted passageways and silent courtyards--the Escuelas Nacionales de Arte, or National Art Schools. Wandering among these semi-abandoned ruins, you occasionally come upon a student. One young artist was using a white-tiled bathroom as a studio, working on a Warholesque painting of a big cigarette pack with ...