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Mohammed Rafiq Lalmiya is standing alone, in stunned silence, before the burned-out hulk of his former mosque in Naroda Patia, a community in the western Indian state of Gujarat. This is the first time the 32- year-old rickshaw driver has dared to return to his old neighborhood since Hindu mobs attacked on Feb. 28, seeking revenge for the incineration of 59 Hindus on a train in nearby Godhra the day before. With the silent support of the police and the local government, Hindu fanatics desecrated mosques, torched Muslim homes and businesses, and burned to death dozens of Lalmiya's friends and neighbors. Lalmiya, a gaunt man in sandals and a soiled yellow shirt, fled in ...