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Oscar Niemeyer, the master Brazilian architect, hates airplanes. "Flying is crap," he says, succinctly. He loathes flying so much that he has stood up presidents, media grandees and tycoons. Fidel Castro once joked about sending a ship to fetch him. It's a wonder Brasilia, the city he conjured from red clay in the middle of the Brazilian nowhere, ever got built. But if his fear of flying has been one of Brazil's longest-standing jokes, Niemeyer has always had the last laugh: after all, he has built a career out of mocking gravity with concrete, stone and glass. At his best, he has made buildings soar, sculpting vertiginous whorls, waves, pods and chalices. Today, at 94, ...