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The Chinese teapot wasn't terribly impressive. "Cheap and bad," scoffs Jinichi Takahashi, mayor of Tsubame, a small industrial city in northern Japan famed for its precision knives and elegant tableware. He spotted the shoddy tin kettle--one of China's pioneering exports to Japan--at a local department store in 1984. In those days Tsubame's manufacturers were major global suppliers of everything from frying pans to ice-cream scoops to knife sets to flatware. So why worry? The answer came in 1996, when Chinese tableware exports to Japan topped $10 million for the first time. "That's when I sensed that they could compete with us," says Takahashi.
The realization ...